Lam turns up with a motorbike, bang on time. Even better, it turns out Tony knows him, and respects Lam's driving skills, which makes me feel at ease.
Lam makes several stops along the way to show me, in his words, "the real Vietnam". It seems pretty real - I see a fish market, how incense sticks are made for Buddhist ceremonies, the entire brick making process from clay to finished product, lots of rice paddys, granite mining and plenty of winding country mountain roads.
We stop in a small village after braving the rain - it will probably tip it down every afternoon for half an hour or so. It's all part of the fun. What's also fun is that I'm so far off the tourist route that little kids are surprised and slightly intimidated by me. I get a hello of a lot of waves and "hello!"s. It's all very friendly.
This evening I'm staying in a bamboo cabin on stilts.
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